Come on inn…
by Katrina Ashford

Driving along the narrow, winding
road from Taynuilt, Loch Awe came
into view. It was spectacular. We’d
arrived on one of those magical Highland
spring days when the sky is absolutely clear,
the colours sharp and there’s not a breath
of wind; the loch reflecting everything
around it gloriously.

With the promise of staying in one of the most
romantic hotels in Scotland, we’d arrived
at Taychreggan on the shores of the loch.
A former drovers’ inn, this 300-year-old
establishment has been carefully extended
and renovated to provide a range of
accommodation, much of it with those
magical loch views.

Cosy lounges with roaring fires and big
comfy couches invite you to come and sit
down, relax. Our suite, in the old part of
the building had a similar feel to it, with a
four-poster and a window-side table and
chairs. There was even a window seat in the
enormous bathroom.

For those who want to get out and
do things, Highland Experience at
Taychreggan can organise activities such
as archery, mock deer stalking, clay pigeon
shooting and an introduction to falconry, if
you book in advance.

Alternatively, book local therapist Lizzie
Rose for a full body massage.

Or why not just take a walk through the
grounds and down to the loch? There’s
even a boat that you can take out if you
wish.

The day starts well with a sumptuous
breakfast. Guests choose from a spread
including Taychreggan’s delicious honey
roast muesli, cereals, yoghurt and fruit
as well as toast and croissants served with
home made preserves. Hot choices include
boiled eggs and soldiers, Argyll smoked
salmon with scrambled eggs, or the full
Scottish, consisting of bacon, sausage, black
pudding, tomato, mushrooms, tattie scone
and the egg of your choice. Phew – time for
a wee lie down after that!

If you want to get out and about,
Taychreggan is well situated for a wee tour
of this lovely part of Argyll. A road goes
right round Loch Awe, making a very scenic
and enjoyable day out. Take your time – the
roads are narrow, so just enjoy the view.
There is also a host of forest walks and cycle
tracks as much of the area is maintained by
the Forestry Commission.

We drove down the banks of the loch
to Ford then headed out onto the
Lochgilphead road, taking us to Kilmartin
Glen. This historical part of the country
is where the Scots first landed, but people
have lived in the area for thousands of
years, gradually shaping this magical
landscape. First stop was Carnasserie Castle.
It’s quite an uphill walk to get there, but
definitely worth it. This castle is very well
preserved and the first one I’ve visited
where you can get to the top of the tower.

This jelly-leg-giving climb goes up and up a
spiral staircase, taking you out onto a roof
terrace, where I gripped onto the handrail
for dear life. Bravely walking round to the
other side, rail never out of my hand, I took
a deep breath and admired the spectacle
below – well worth it. All that was required
now was the courage to get back down those
stairs!

Further down the road, we stopped at
the village of Kilmartin, its museum at
Kilmartin House being well worth a visit
to give you an idea of the wealth of history
the area boasts. The tea room is good, too,
although we didn’t have room for very
much.

We took the road further down to Dunadd
hill fort, where the kings of Scotland used
to be crowned, placing their feet in a carved
footprint. It’s quite a climb and I had an
“are we there yet?” moment, but the view is
amazing.

Plus I’d managed to work off that breakfast
at last!

We headed north, travelling back to
Taychreggan via Oban and Taynuilt.
Guests at Taychreggan are well fed, with
afternoon tea served from 1pm as well as
high teas (handy for children) in the bar
from 5.45–6.45pm and packed lunches
being available, in addition to breakfast and
dinner.

Our first night we’d eaten in the bar –
chicken curry being the dish of the day –
but this, our second, we were dining in style
in the restaurant, with its five course dinner
on offer.

The chef ’s appetiser sounded interesting
– fish an chips with mushy peas. We
wondered how that would turn out. I can’t
stand those mushy peas you get in a tin, but
my husband loves them, so he was delighted
at the sound of this. I pointed out that as we
were in a fine dining restaurant, there’s no
way they’d be served and it would no doubt
be real peas mashed up. I’m delighted to
say I was right. The tiny block of white fish
came with a tiny mound of mashed green
peas and the thinnest chips I’ve ever seen.
Size it up and I’d have had a full portion.

Our starter was a choice of Inverawe
smoked salmon with potato salad, trout
caviar and herb oil or warm salad of
Stornoway black pudding and goats cheese
with red onion confit and cider vinaigrette.
We both went for the smoked salmon, which
was delicious.

The wine list is extensive with helpful
tasting notes, the wines being reasonably
priced for a restaurant. We’d chosen a
Francesca 2008 Pinot Noir, which is a light
pinot, possibly a little too light for a pinot,
but my husband was having duck for his
main and I was having fish, so we’d wanted
something that would go with both. It
certainly did that, so we’d chosen well.

Hubby’s breast of duck was served with
puy lentils, rosti potato, celeriac, wild
mushrooms and Madeira jus. The duck was
delicious and we both loved the mushrooms
– consisting of a mix of enkio, shitake and
brown cap – they added another meaty
dimension to the dish. Excellent.

My pan fried halibut was served with
wilted spinach, carrot puree, pancetta and
Sauternes sauce and was quite sensational.

For dessert, I’d opted for sticky toffee
pudding with caramel sauce and vanilla ice
cream, my husband choosing the glazed
lemon tart with crème frâiche sorbet.
Absolutely stuffed, we retired for the night,
dreaming of kings and castles.

Taychreggan Hotel
Tel: 01866 833 211
www.taychregganhotel.co.uk